Day 2: WEINRIEDER

"I do not like to drink anonymous wine" - Friedrich Rieder

Waking up to the smell of coffee in Vienna is an ideal way to meet the day. We were fortunate to have had the time to explore this spectacular city.

In the afternoon our local friends picked us up, not in the buggy above, but a real car, and escorted us to Weinrieder west of Poysdorf in Kleinhadersdorf. For Andrea and Tomas it was not their first trip to meet the Rieder’s and their excitement to see them again was contagious. Having sold the wines for a bit over a year and never visiting, naturally I was also excited, but when it comes from locals you cannot help but feel like you are really onto something.

The (Wein)Rieder family.

As soon as we arrived Melanie Rieder, gently hurried us into the cozy little tasting room just off to the side of their very green backyard. The yard was modest but appeared as if it were designed to entertain. Tasting with Friedrich is an experience in and of its self. He speaks about his wines with boistrous honest enthusiasm and total disregard as to whether you understand German. Andrea translated for us. She was fast, but he was faster. Ultimately language proved to be no obstacle. Friedrich loves to present his wines and is totally at home buzzing around a table of tasters telling their tales, because he is so animated whether you understand him or not you enjoy listening. At one point before we got to the dessert wines I requested to go back and re taste a few things. He refused. His reasoning? To go back and taste them would destroy the progression. Before I could object he disappeared, leaving me a bit confused, only to return with full sealed bottles of the wines that I asked to revisit. Soon we will open the wines that he gave us with Frank and Zsuzsa in the US. This indeed will be a much better way to re taste. To succinctly sum up my experience of Weinrieder wines after our visit, I would describe them as “particularly individual”.

Here are few highlights from the latest vintage taken straight out of my notebook:

2008 DAC Gruner Veltliner –

Intensely aromatic, honey, melon, some petrol notes, great acidity. Slight sprits, raw coconut, great length 12.5% abv

2008 “Schneiderberg Vineyard” Gruner Veltliner -

“Incredible nose, vegetal, but in a good way. Petrol, pork, coriander, smoke, ash. Slight bitterness, dense. Roast turkey, musty, challenging but very exciting, very peppery, patchouli oil, ginger…” -The grapes for were picked the first days of December!

2008 “Kugler Vineyard” Riesling –

Quite clean, nutty, honeycomb, very good, powerful, yeasty. Lees aging? Buttery/creamy. Zesty energetic acidity. The whole table loved the wine…

The crown jewels of Weinrieder are their 20 hectares of vineyards situated on prime south and southwest facing hillsides of rich loam soil that the family farms themselves. The vineyards are unquestionably, sustainably farmed, there was an abundance of life in all of them. The wild grasses between the rows, double as both fertilizer for the vines and home to the good bugs that protect them against the bad bugs. We saw multiple deer and hawks. At one point Friedrich was proudly pointing out his high-tech electric fence designed to protecting his baby vineyard from vermin. While at the same moment what might have been the largest rabbit I have ever seen hopped through it. We were dying, he laughed too.

It is clear that Friedrich shares a special relationship with his vines.

After the vineyards we visited the cellars. Certainly, his least favorite part of the tour, his attitude somehow reinforced the importance he places in the vineyards. On our way back to the house we stopped at a little ghost village full of Heurigers. These amazing little spaces serve as a cellar/wine bar/picnic and party place all at the same time. From them producers present their latest releases to the public along with simple, picnic style food. These things literally lined the streets. Sadly, many of them are falling out of use. It is just too easy to get around with a car these days. I would die for one block of them in LA.

Upon arrival we were treated to Weinrieder’s opulent Sekt. A spicy full bodied sparkler, exploding with ginger, pepper and clove. It was an excellent reviver before we dove into the delicious array of fresh bread, local meats, pickles, pates, garlicky spreads and of course plenty of great Gruner and Riesling to wash it all down. Exactly the sort of experience you would have at a serious Heuriger. During this relaxing early evening meal Friedrich made a comment I expect to remain with me my entire life, “I do not like to drink anonymous wine”. It is a simple statement, but demands much of the enthusiast. Most importantly it inextricably connects the aromas and flavors in the glass with both the people and the places a wine comes from. This to me is both the essence and importance of terroir.