Vienna, Austria - August, 21st 10:30am
Weingut Juris
Restaurant Alain Weissgerberg
Meeting with Patricius from Tokaji
Vienna for the evening
a cafe, light beer, and the deep rest of jet lag.
Passing the Alps as you approach Vienna is an awe inspiring sight, isn't it? Despite this image the scale of the Alps is an astonishing sight from above.
It is not hard to imagine the climactic influence this monumental range must exhibit on the many wine producing appelations it divides. Which is exactly what I am thinking as we approach. That, and "How many other passengers are contemplating wine right now?" The lack of sleep was no problem we were well charged with the fine food supplied by Austrian Air. I am not being sarcastic it was totally edible.
Axel Stiegermar of Weingut Juris promptly greeted us at the airport and wisked us away to his vineyards in Gols. Literally, the first stop was this vineyard. Here he checks the sugar on his St. Laurent. everything is looking pretty good for 09!
After getting a great tour of his expanding vineyard holdings we explored the winery, did a bit of barrel / new release tasting and then went to an amazing restaurant for lunch. (For more information about our visit as well as some tasting notes see the producer profile below).
Our first meal in Austria boded well for the rest of the trip. Alain's style of cuisine would fit just about anywhere. Fesh, modern, preperations of top quality meats, local fish and just picked fruits and vegetables. The food was simple but engaging, creative but understated, with an obvious awareness of the local wines.
This is their veal shank, in a reflective pool of magic, why describe it further? I know you want it.
It was a genuine pleasure to share this afternoon at such a fabulous restaurant with Axel and his wife Herta. They truly love food, wine, and the sharing of both. Axel even cracked a bottle of Tricata his Amarone style Blaufränkisch. An unusual approach to an unusual grape but one that, surprisingly, works. Not until the end of the bottle did this behemoth start flaunting its incredible range. Come holidays this would be an absolute show stopper. Unfortunately this picture does not capture Kristyn's first jet lag attack. She was a trooper but for the first 4 days at exactly 3:30 she would hit a wall. No matter where we were there would be a few head nods followed by a much needed double shot of Viennese espresso. Good thing it was so good!
After Lunch Axel took us to our hotel right in the center of Vienna ,Hotel Domizil. Quaint, slightly smoky accommodations with helpful staff and top notch coffee. Kristyn passed out immediately but I still had a meeting with Arno from Patricius of Tokaji, a recent Hungarian addition to the Blue Danube portfolio. They produce luscious complex sweet wines as well as some stunning dry wines that are landing in the US right now and will soon be available at fine restaurants and retailers near you! Since I was unable to visit him in Tokaji he came to see me in Vienna. After a crash course on the estate he told me a few good spots to hit, including the world's best gelatto, located in Vienna not Italy; go figure.
After wards I went back to pick up Kristyn for a bit of night time exploring. She was awake when I got there but very time disoriented. When she had woken up she thought it was morning the next day, and that I was missing, until she realized it was still getting dark!
Ahhh...My favorite way to end a long day of wine tasting and traveling. Light, cold, fizzy beer. Our heads are awash in the anticipation of what's yet to come. Good night.
VISIT REPORT: WIENGUT JURIS - GOLS, AUSTRIA
It was appropriate that a visit to a winery starts with a tour of the vineyards. Especially when the grapes are close enough to harvest to start tasting good. Axel took us on a whirl wind tour of vineyards. Most of what we sampled was Pinot Noir and St. Laurent. The diferences in these varietals can be tasted long before they become wine.
Here is a close up of the ground. Located on a raised plateau of pebbles and loam this dry farmed vineyard produces small amounts of flavor packed grapes. Notice the cover crop. No herbicides are used in any of his vineyards. If the weeds become excessive they use the plow to iliminate them and will spread straw in the rows and under the vines to prevent water loss from the constant drying winds.
Notice the double stalked vines? This is a clever way of increasing plant density in the vineyard while still keeping it easy to farm. This is actually two plants directly next to each other. The method was first utilized by Axel's father George Steigelmar. Unfortunatly we were unable to meet George but it is clear that his experience continues to influence Axel.
Always the experimentalists. This is a young Pinot Noir vineyard planted to a variety of clones and root stocks. Every four rows is different. The wine will not be produced for commercial use, only for evaluation. Notice how small the vines are to the left, in comparison to those in the center and to the right? These vines were planted at the same time. Axel is unsure what the results will be but obviously enjoys the process.
Common Sense - seems the motto of the winery. Hand harvested grapes, small batch gravity flow wine making (pictured above) and a specially designed winery that never needs heating or cooling. These choices do not define Juris but reflect a philosophy that will surely result in better and better wines. I am convinced that a part of Juris, is and will remain undefined. Axel's mischievous curiosity (pictured below: where he pours an experimental barrel sample) is part of what makes the wines compelling.
Tasting the line up it is clear that the goal of Juris is to produce wines that are regional, varietaly correct, vintage specific and widely appealing. Some are to be consumed imediatly, some should age and many reward both the eager and the paitent in their own way.
Highlights:
2007? Juris Villa Syrah Barrel Sample- From Hungary near Lake Balaton
The grapes are grown by George in Hungary. Axel handles the wine making at Juris in Austria. A real surprise. Northern Rhone in style. An inky, pepper, fennel, eucalyptus, tinged black fruit bomb. A leaner than expected mouth feel with angular structure. Very curious to taste the finished version of this wine. Really distinctive, potential is high.
2007 vintage overview from Axel " Lower yields, than 06, early ripening, classic"
2007 Zwiegelt Selection
Fresh, fruity and detailed. Clean, nice tannin structure. Black cherry forest floor, dried leaves...
07 Pinot Noir and St. Laurent Selection
I am familiar with these in the US but drinking them in LA and drinking them in Austria are two different experiences. Even at the selection level the wines are built to age. In Austria both wines show less fruit and richness than in the US but I would expect them to come around.
06 Pinot Noir Reserve
Up for top red in Salon Guide
The 06 reserves were off the charts. I did not write much but they stand out as favorites. Really stylish, young but profound. Spice, oak, clove.
06 St. Laurent Reserve
Top wine for me. Balanced and exotic. I can't wait to see these Reserves in the US. They were both really special wines.
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